Birds of fortune

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THEY look like giant match boxes with tiny windows, not the architectural models submitted for aesthetic contests. Each would cost from RM30,000 to RM200,000 to build. They are substitutes for caves used by the birds, not ordinary birds, but those kinds that build their nests with their saliva – the most expensive saliva in the world and one of the main export items from the State. You do not require containers for these products; one hand luggage that fits into the overhead compartment of an aircraft, if stuffed with edible nests. contains a lot of money on the Singapore market.

BIRD OF FORTUNE: Picture of a small bird of fortune.

At one stage, the Sarawak government was concerned with over harvesting of those nests in the caves and wanted them protected. To regularise the collections, licences were issued by the Sarawak Museum to traditional owners of caves and the Forest department enforces the regulations relating to the rearing of swifts especially in the shop houses in towns and cities.

These birds have been living in our caves as old as the caves themselves, Niah being most famous of them all. Many caves are also found in the Ulu Baram, Suai and in Bau and on the islands, Satang Besar being one of them; many more across the border, in the Kalimantan.

Nowadays they have new homes of concrete built for them in the countryside. Those who squat in the shop houses are having problem with the law, and often get chased away because they are so noisy and careless with their toilet habits. The city people want to have peace and quiet in the evening and don’t appreciate their kind of music.

Last weekend, I was surprised to see at least twenty huge match boxes on both sides of the road to Pendam and Sebuyau. These bird houses have mushroomed for the past one year. Many are still under construction – concrete evidence of the confidence in the future of the trade in the edible nests.

I am told there is big money in those match boxes full of birds. Their nests, if properly processed, find ready market in Singapore, Taiwan, Hong Kong and in other cities in China. As of last week, a kilogram of good grade of nests (processed) fetched between RM11000 –RM19000!

According to a recent media report, Malaysia is the second largest producer of edible birds nests after Indonesia. From Sarawak alone several hundred tons of nests of all grades, subject to correction, have been harvested since 1990.

An ancient export item

It is interesting to learn that this centuries-old export product from Sarawak is even featured in a Sya’ir, the Malay recitative poem. For instance, from the Ballad Of Jerjezang, published in 2001 by Leiston Press, Suffolk, England, we get the following romantic treatment of the birds’ nests.

Legend has it that when the new Chief of Niah decided to do business outside his territory, among the goods he wanted to sell to Miri were the rattan, rubber and rice, and to Singapore, the birds nets:

“Twas not very long thereafter Ladung resolved, within the land,

“Decided to go to Singapore, Bringing the fungus of Melibeng the Elder

“Having thus the story begun, Summoned Murai did Ladung the Elder

“Bring forth, sir, such boat as may be, Resolving to sail to Singapore.’’

“They were not long at sea, Two or three days, running to five,

“They reached Singapore with all speed, Sails were hauled in, the anchor dropped.

“So they arrived in Singapore State. Many the traders came from all quarters”.

“What has been brought by the Captain, Surely it’s right together to trade.”

“The Captain’s crew at first said: “They are no goods that we have brought.

“Merely intending to bring to Singapore These rock fungus – here they are.”

“Many Chinese came to inspect them: Hail. The Captain of savages.

“It is not fungus we’re looking at, Clearly these are nests of swiftlets.

“If you, sir, wish to do business, Pray promptly tell us the price.”

“Perchance in sail or even sugar, Or calico cloth of red colour.”

“Then spoke Pancar Negara, We merely came to make acquaintance,

“Merely intended to serve as a trial, If they’re of use, please take them.

“All were taken by the Chinese Who gave goods in fullest value.”

To do justice to this beautiful ballad, it must be sung in Malay from the Jawi script or the Romanised version.

This may be a legend, but the barter trade – bests’ nets for a piece of cloth – was a deal followed by numerous of others over the centuries. Some records say it began in the 16th century. Can’t dispute that, can you?

The above recitative poem was written in Jawi and transcribed by Tuan Imam Haji Mera’ee Bin Abdullah in the 1930s from the creation of his grandfather who in turn had got the tale from one Do Purai, a Penan of Niah. Sometime in 1960s. Dato Arni Haji Lampam, then a young Sarawak Administrative officer, was given the script by the Tuan Imam with the intention to pass it to Lord Medway, 5th Earl of Cranbrook, who had offered to translate it to English.

The transliterated and translated extracts of the poem are produced here with kind permission of the Earl.

Do not over-harvest !

The trade will last for a long time to come if over harvesting is avoided. Otherwise, it will become a sunset industry sooner than we think, at the present rate of harvesting. Even the birds will complain when in the process of collecting their nests, their eggs are damaged and their babies killed. They will fly away, disgusted with human behaviour.

The venerable Datuk Amar James Wong has written a poem ‘Niah Caves –The Swallows’ expressing his concern in respect of over-harvesting of the nests:

Extracts of the poem taken from a Sarawak Museum publication, 1993, “A Guide To Birds’ Nests Of Sarawak” by Dr Charles M.U. Leh:

“Surely such malpractices should not be allowed

“At Niah where there is still hope of salvation

“Our determination should not be in doubt

“To prevent and save the swallows from extinction

“Let us all who are involved – government and owners

“Put the interest of the birds before ourselves

“For ultimately the truth that really matters

“Is to ensure that the swallows will always inhabit the caves.”

Those concrete buildings with little windows are their equivalent of modern homes in the new housing estates. They regard the cave dwellers as being old fashioned.

Salivary cement for a piece of calico

If only the grandchildren of the Aerodramus knew that the nests of their forbear were exchanged for a piece of cheap textile in Singapore, they would have organised themselves into an NGO to demand an apology for past exploitation of their ancestors.

However, when you sip that birds’ nests soup during the forthcoming Chinese New Year celebrations, spare a thought for the eggs and the chicks of the Aerodramus whose sleep has been disturbed by the collectors in a hurry to the market.

With the current good price, we can hear the ranchers and the cave owners laughing and singing the Sya’ir all the way  to the bank. There they feather their own nests.

Sharing in the mood of the Season, I wish everybody Kong Hee Fatt Choy.