Running Canada Hill

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This historical site also has some of the best trekking and walking trails to be found within a stone’s throw of the city centre

ENTRY POINT: Trekkers and runners heading towards the various entry points to the trails which can be found just off the side of this long, narrow tar road.

CANADA HILL – a seemingly modest hill overlooking the South China Sea with breathtaking views of the seaside city of Miri unfurled below – holds a special place in the hearts of the many locals and expatriates who call the city home.

It was here in 1910 that the first oil well was drilled by Shell, making Miri the birthplace of the Malaysian petroleum industry.

Later, that first oil well – formally known as Miri Well #1 – was fondly nicknamed as ‘The Grand Old Lady of Miri’.

In present times, the Grand Old Lady and the nearby Petroleum Museum –built in the 90s to commemorate the petroleum industry’s history and significant contribution to Malaysia’s socio-economic development – draws thousands of visitors to Canada Hill every year.

The hilltop is also a favourite spot for locals – including photographers and courting couples – as it offers the perfect vantage point from where visitors can savour awe-inspiring vistas from the majestic urban landscape of the city and the seemingly lazy ambulation of the sea during the day to the fairy-like twinkling lights of the city, passing ships and remote oil platforms at night.

Best kept secret

However, it would be a disservice to assume that an old oil well, a museum and magnificent panoramas are all Canada Hill has to offer. This historical site also has some of the best trekking and walking trails to be found within a stone’s throw of the city centre.

What makes this even more impressive is that the trails are meticulously maintained by volunteers consisting of trekking and fitness enthusiasts who frequent the site.

I first heard about the runners of Canada Hill when I was in Miri earlier this year as part of the Borneo Post Adventure Team. I was told running off-road up and down the hill was a popular pastime for many locals.

These enthusiasts shunned the relative safety of the tar- sealed roads leading up the hill in favour of self-made trails taking them through dense jungle growth and over steep terrain at the mercy of the elements as well as millions of blood-sucking insects which populate the hill.

In hushed tones, I was informed there were incidence of people who lost their lives while running the trails after falling down the hillside. I also heard a couple of stories about people (inevitably friends of friends) who had close encounters of the supernatural kind while running the trails.

These stories and urban myths piqued my interest so much that I was determined to experience running the trails myself should the opportunity arise. This opportunity presented itself last month and I quickly jumped at the chance.

My goal: to discover why the runners of Canada Hill willingly put their lives at risk of injury and even death on a regular basis.

The start

On a recent sunny Sunday afternoon, I found myself standing at the top of Canada Hill, stretching my torso and leg muscles in anticipation of the afternoon’s run.

(When I say ‘run’, I mean it in the loosest sense of the word as most of the time, I would be walking, carefully picking the best places upon which to place my feet.)

One of the first things I noted was that although the carpark next to the Petroleum museum was full of motor vehicles, there was not one person to be seen actually running on the road leading up to the hilltop.

“The road is not challenging enough for them,” explained insurance agent Valerie Voon who agreed to be my guide for the day – (Valerie is my first cousin, so she really didn’t have much of a say in the matter).

“I used to come here to run about three times a week.

I was quite fit then and I could finish faster than even some of my male friends and colleagues,” she said.

Sadly, because of work and time constraints, Valerie had to give up running the Hill. My visit to Miri marked the first time she had run the Hill in recent years.

Leading off the carpark is a long narrow tar road flanked by tall grasses and brush growth which lead to the few residences at the top of the Hill. We would start our journey at the trail located right at the end.

Along the way, we passed by people coming out of the various exits, having just finished their run for the day.

Valerie said to the best of her knowledge, there are about six main trails and a few exit or entry points along this road, so runners can choose either to do all the trails or just certain sections only.

The trail

After a 10-minute walk, we arrived at the starting point and began what would be the first of many descents followed by ascents across the hillside.

Despite the fact that it was mid-afternoon with a blazing sun overhead, we did not feel the brunt of the heat as the jungle offered plenty of good shade from the sun’s harsh rays.

As far as hills go, Canada Hill is not very tall – about 200 metres in height. All around the foot of the Hill, housing developments have been or are being built.

“If people get lost, all they have to do is just head down and they should be able to find their way out,” Valerie said.

However, people living on and around the Hill face the risk of soil erosion and landslides, especially during heavy downpours.

In January 2009, two people were killed by a landslide when tonnes of earth on the west side of Canada Hill came crashing down on their living quarters after several days of heavy rainfall. The landslide also buried a number of houses at the foot of the Hill.

Allure of Nature

For trekkers and nature seekers, the mostly untouched natural landscape of Canada Hill offers plenty to delight the senses.

During our two-hour trek, we saw and heard birds and insect life. However, not having a trained eye for these things meant we were not able to identify many of them by name beyond knowing they were of different species.

We were also fortunate enough to overhear a troop of monkeys engaged in a loud conversation just off the trail, although the dense foliage made it difficult to spot the animals.

The varied terrain was physically challenging enough to present a good workout but not too difficult for us to get through. From time to time as we crested over ridges or passed through natural clearings, we were treated to beautiful views of the surrounding countryside.

At various locations along the trails are signs put up by volunteers, reminding people to keep the trails clean. Indeed, we hardly saw any litter along the way, leading us to assume that people were doing their bit to keep walking the trails a pleasant experience.

At certain places where the trails were not so well-marked, some people had thoughtfully tied plastic banners around tree trunks and branches to indicate the right way.

Nevertheless, we had to backtrack a couple of times as some trails we took led to dead ends. We were also fortunate to cross paths with people who were familiar with the trails and who directed us back to the right paths at the very moment we became unsure of where we were heading.

Because of a prior appointment, we only had time to complete part of the whole trail. My only consolation was the thought that I will be back one day to finish what I started.

Future runners

For first-timers thinking of running the trails, a word of advice: come prepared. Comfortable clothes which one wouldn’t mind getting dirty, sturdy walking shoes with good soled grip, a full water bottle and insect repellent will go a long way towards making the experience that much more enjoyable.

Teaming up with people familiar with the trails will also be a great help, especially when trying to locate the various exits which lead out to the main road. Having a trail buddy will also act as a safety precaution in case one or the other runs into problems and needs assistance.

Phone reception didn’t seem to be a problem but due to the uncertain amount of time a first-timer may need to finish a trail, it’s advisable to make sure that one’s phone is fully charged and has enough credit to make outgoing calls incase emergency help is required.

How fit does one need to be to attempt the trails?

During our trek, we met people of all ages, shapes and sizes – many of whom effortlessly overtook us rather quickly – suggesting that most people in reasonably good health should be able to tackle these trails without too much difficulty.

However, the fact remains that the terrain can get pretty challenging as evidenced by the need for ropes to scale up and down certain sections of the trail which can be very steep.

In addition, navigating the trails during wet weather makes it that much more challenging as it can become a very slippery and muddy affair.

On the side of caution, it’s wise not to take the terrain and the elements for granted. Some parts of the trail we took passed dangerously close to the edge of steep drops which one may miss if not familiar with the lay of the land. At the same time, the weather and natural phenomenon can turn what would usually be a familiar, safe, routine run into an unfortunate accident waiting to happen.

But having personally experienced the joy of running the trails, I think I now understand a little better why the runners of Canada Hill are willing to take such risks.

I look forward to returning one day.