WHERE have all the Batak men gone?
My travelling companion, Jocelyn, also a journalist, posed this question after spending two days at Lake Toba in Northern Sumatra.
Whether in padi fields, vegetable gardens or oil palm plantations, we saw women working and at times, with little children around.
Flashing a mischievous smile, our driver-cum-tourist guide said: “Batak men do not work.”
The three of us women journalists went “WOW” and almost in unison, hollered: “We don’t want to stay here!”
A trait common among Batak people is that women make up the ‘working class’ while men rarely have to roll up their sleeves. It is also the women’s responsibility, as wives or sisters, to put food on the table before going out to work in the field.
The men, on the other hand, have an easy life, spending their time with friends, drinking coffee in coffeeshops or under the shade of bell flower trees.
Our tourist guide revealed despite having to ensure enough income for the household, daughters never received any inheritance from their parents – only sons are beneficiaries.
Long drive
As there is no direct air link to Lake Toba, we took a Firefly flight from Subang, Kuala Lumpur, to Medan Polonia International Airport. From there, it was a four-hour drive along a long, sloppy and narrow road to Parapat port which is further north of Sumatra.
There were plenty of dead, age-old traditions for three curious journalists to soak up. The long drive was definitely worth the experience, allowing us to savour the panoramic view of Toba and observe several elements of Batak environmental landscape such as vast rice fields and wetlands.
Toba is best known for rice cultivation which also holds a religious significance. It is believed to increase the power of the Batak high priests responsible for the agricultural prosperity.
Just as night fell, there was a heavy downpour. We learned there was still an hour’s journey ahead of us. As our driver got restless – apparently bugged by the constant buzzing of his handphone – his overtaking manoeuvres became a tat aggressive. And each time he stepped on the gas, I said a silent a prayer.
Throughout the journey, there was a car in front of us. It signalled for every turn but refused to let us pass!
On arrival at the hotel, our driver told us he needed to travel back to Medan as his son had been admitted to hospital. Ah, that probably accounted for his restlessness en route to Parapat.
I was impressed by his professionalism though as he assured us he would only leave after his colleague had arrived to replace him.
We stayed in the hotel for the night. And while enjoying a poolside dinner, we were looking forward to the next day’s programme – a lake cruise.
Lake Toba
From Parapat, several boats would come by every hour to take passengers for a leisurely cruise around Lake Toba.
This scenic lake was formed about 70,000 years ago following the eruption of a 700,000-year-old volcano. The blowup was possibly the largest recorded volcanic rupture within the last 25 million years.
Sailing along the approximately 450m deep lake, one could not help but feel overwhlemed by a sense of antiquity – that this body of water – mysterious, brooding, yet beautiful and fascinating – is one of the planet’s most ancient prehistoric sites.
There are about 1.5 million Batak people in Sumatra, most of whom are Christians with a smaller number of Islam followers while some still adhere to traditional beliefs.
Batak societies are found mostly in North Sumatra which includes Toba, Karo and Angkola. The Toba locals are the only ones who strongly identify themselves as Bataks and speak a unique Batak dialect.
To catch a glimpse of traditional Batak lifestyle, you must go to Tomok, a Batak village on Samosir Island. That was what we did after a short cruise in the lake.
In Tomok, you can see traditional Batak architecture as you stroll along sandy roads lined with Sumatran pine trees. There are many custom-built homes called Jab (in Toba tongue) or traditional houses. The roof is constructed to provide a larger internal space, and decorated with ornate carvings of stars and suns, usually black, red and white in colour. Various symbols around the building decorations, woodcarvings and tomb imprints can also be seen.
All Batak tribes have their own specialities and the Toba Bataks are known for their woodcarvings, weavings and elaborate stone tombs. In Tomok, you can view all these in a traditional village setting with gorgeous houses standing alongside a flea market offering an array of cultural paraphernalias to bargain for.
The Batak Museum
Historical burial site
There are also plenty of myths, rituals and suspicions about humans and animals, life and death, villages and forests, warfare and agriculture. All these are observed during ceremonial rites.
Tucked beside a lane is the must-visit historical burial site of Batak King Sidabutar and his family. There are many stone tombs here, including the famous 200-year-old ship-shaped stone casket of King Sidabutar.
An on-site guide is available to explain the significance and meaning of the tombs. Apparently, the story is told over and over to tourists.
We were given a sash to wear before entering the cemetery, I believe, as a mark of respect for royalty buried there. In front of us were rows of stone sarcophagi.
Sidabutar is the ancient ruling clan of Tomok. Indeed, the sarcophagi of the ruling Sidabutar clan are the main attraction in the village.
King Ompu Soribuntu was highly respected by the Batak people in Tomok for establishing the Dalihan Natolu (literally three principles), the general philosophy that guided the Batak people. According to custom, when the king died, he was not buried in the ground but in a sarcophagus carved in stone and placed in the centre of the village. Seven days later, his descendants would plant a Hariara tree at his grave.
Another important Sidabutar ruler was King Ompu Ni Ujung Barita Sidabutar.
According to legend, when he was at an elderly age, he wanted to marry a woman named Anting Malela. During the engagement period, it was customary for Batak women to carry a cup without handles on their heads. But Anting broke with tradition as she wanted to end the engagement.
Furious at being spurned, the King used black magic to make her crazy. It was said Anting later disappeared in the wilderness and was never seen again.
When King Ompu Ni Ujung Barita Sidabutar died, he was placed in a sarcophagus beside his predecessor’s. The image of him wearing a turban-like headgear was carved on the front of the sarcophagus.
Although she broke off her betrothal to the king, Anting’s image was also sculptured behind the sarcophagus, showing her carrying a cup without handles over her head – a symbol of the king’s command for obedience.
Later, European missionaries who came to Samosir island spread Christianity among the Bataks. King Ompu Solompoan Sidabutar was the first man to become a Christian in Tomok and he helped spread the religion in his kingdom. King Ompu Solompoan’s grave spots a cross.
Further down, there is a doll on a stage with the story that a former king requested for a dancing doll after losing of his son. This has become a funeral ritual.
Batak culture attaches great importance to preserving tombs, cemeteries and burial sites. This is evident in Samosir. Most of the tombs, even some large ornate bone-houses called tugu, bear intricate burial traditions.
Many cultures value life, change and progress but some cultures revere the past. The dead, age-old traditions and mysticism of symbols or tribal arts preserve a part of history that beckons those curious enough to unravel the secrets of ancient cultures.