Away from the madding crowd

THE day dawned clear and the sun shone brilliantly in the cloud speckled clear blue sky. This was a perfect day for an escape from the madding crowd.

We were on our way to Pulau Satang Besar; one of the four islands that make up Talang-Satang National Park. It is far from the madding crowd of the city.

Our departure was controlled by the tides and at about 9.30am, we left from the small village of Pasir Pandak. Pasir Pandak is about a 45-minute drive from Kuching and the intersection for this picturesque village is just before Buntal as you head towards Damai and the Santubong Peninsula.

The 19,400-ha Talang-Satang National Park, which is managed by Sarawak Forestry Corporation, was gazetted Sarawak’s first marine park in 1999.

The islands commonly referred to as Sarawak’s Turtle Islands are Pulau Talang Besar, Pulau Talang Kecil, Pulau Satang Besar and Pulau Satang Kecil. We were off for a day trip to Pulau Satang Besar, the only island in this park that can be visited by members of the public; but there are no organised boat trips so visitors must join a tour.

Sandstone rocks which form Pulau Satang Besar are of the Plateau Sandstone Formation, with much of the island enveloped by forest. It is a green island, ringed with sandy and, in some places, rocky beaches. It appeared as a green oasis in a sea of blue as our boat drew nearer.

The descendants of Datu Patinggi Abang Abdillah, who was granted a land lease in 1941 by the third Rajah of Sarawak, Sir Charles Vyner Brooke, privately own this island. The national park includes the beach area and when we asked if there were trails to hike through the temptingly cool forest we were informed that none exist. Disappointing …

The islands that comprise the Talang-Satang National Park account for 95 per cent of all recorded marine turtle landings in Sarawak. These ancient life forms can live for over 100 years. Marine turtles face risks from the time they are laid as eggs, to hatching and while roaming the seas.

Natural predators on land include monitor lizards, bearded pigs and raptors. Once, as hatchlings, they reach the safety of the ocean, they still face natural predators. In addition, they face predation from humans who consume eggs, although now, all marine turtles, which are critically endangered, are totally protected. Marine turtles also get caught in fishing nets.

Females return to their beach of birth between May and September to lay their eggs. At night these graceful creatures in the oceans laboriously and awkwardly crawl ashore to lay their eggs above the waterline. The eggs are removed from the nest and ‘replanted’ in turtle hatcheries.

Here they are guarded against marauding monitor lizards, bearded pigs and other predators (including man). Breeding ranges from 30 to 50 years. Ninety per cent of all landings in Sarawak are Green Turtles.

The white sandy beach was postcard perfect and tall coconut and a few other species of trees sheltered the picnic areas and the park headquarters. Clear blue water lapped the shores of Pulau Satang Besar and we could see the sandy bottom dotted with fragments of coral rubble, stones and shells.

A few transparent fish flitted along the sand as we swam by. This golden beach was far from the madding crowd and a perfect place to renew energy.

For more information on Sarawak’s national parks read ‘The National Parks of Sarawak’ by Hans Hazebroek and Abang Kashim Abang Morshidi, which was published by Natural History Publications in 2000 or go to www.sarawakforestry.com.