Kenyah seamstress finds calling in Bidayuh costumes

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EXQUISITE: Ludia showing off some of her masterpieces at her shop in Bau. — Bernama photo

INTERNET SAVVY: Ludia using Facebook to expand her business horizon. — Bernama photo

BAU: At a corner of a small wooden ‘bundle’ shop in Bau town, a petite, fair-skinned woman was seen busy sewing.

This writer came down all the way from Kuching, some 40km from Bau town, to track down the seamstress who makes a living sewing and selling Bidayuh traditional costumes.

However, Ludia Apoi herself is not Bidayuh. She is of Kenyah descent (a sub-group of the Orang Ulu people) and hails from Long Banga, Baram.

The Bidayuh traditional costume vs the Orang Ulu costume

When asked why she chose to make traditional Bidayuh costumes over Orang Ulu costumes, she said it was due to several factors, including marketability, time and the costume’s elaborateness.

“The Orang Ulu traditional costume is more elaborate and requires more time and dedication to complete. I am also running my business in a Bidayuh-majority area, so the market for Orang Ulu costumes is limited,” she said.

Ludia said as the traditional Bidayuh costume was easier to make, she was able to complete at least 18 sets of costumes monthly.

In high demand

Ludia said the Bidayuh community resided around Kuching, Bau, Padawan and Serian. Each Bidayuh community from the respective areas had traditional costumes that differ slightly from the other, especially in colour.

“Although at the moment I make more traditional costumes from the Bidayuh of the Bau area, I am also taking orders for those from other areas. If they provide me with samples, that would make my job easier,” she said.

The traditional Bidayuh costume set for women comprises the short-sleeved or sleeveless blouse,  ‘jomuh’ (skirt), and matching accessories such as the ‘selapai’ (sash), ‘pangiah’ (bead necklace), ‘porik’ (copper/ metal belt) and ‘sipiah’ (headgear).

The men wear a ‘tawuop’ or ‘tahup’ (long loin-cloth wrapped around the body with one end hanging down in front and the other in the back), the burang sumba (headgear) and occasionally, kima (armlets).

Although there were quite a number of tailors specialising in making traditional Bidayuh costumes in Bau, few made the complete set as Ludia did.

“Some only made the clothes and headgear, but do not make the accessories,” she said.

She said her ability to make the accessories has helped in giving her business an edge over her competitors.

Six months training

The writer enquired her foray into the business.

“I have always been interested in the art of sewing, but only had the opportunity to learn it during a course held at the Suarah Bau Hall in 2000,” said Ludia, who lived in Bau since her marriage in 1993.

The mother of four said the six-month course was very beneficial for her, as she was immediately able to sew well enough afterwards to earn a living.

“At first, I worked from my home in Kampung Belimbing. I accepted orders for traditional Bidayuh costumes, baju kurung and baju kebaya from nearby residents. Eventually my business grew and I moved to this shop,” she told the writer while busy sewing.

A proud family

Her husband, Libek Jonny, was proud and impressed by her ability to make the traditional Bidayuh costume although she was not of the descent.

“I think it is her inborn talent, although it manifested itself rather late,” joked the 48-year-old teacher.

He said he supported his wife’s endeavour by helping her source materials to make the costumes such as cloth, beads and threads from Kuching.

Ludia’s only daughter, Mariam Urai, 18, said her mother taught her sewing from a tender age.

“My mother taught me the tools of the trade since I was young. I can sew, but am more skilled in making accessories like the beaded necklaces worn with the traditional costumes,” she said.

Mariam said she was proud to be the only one among her friends with the skill, although many of them were of Bidayuh descent.

“None of my friends can sew or make the accessories that go with the traditional Bidayuh costume. I am proud to be able to use my skill to help my mother,” she said.

Using Bacebook to market costumes

Ludia admitted that she had no idea how easily her business would take off, when she first ventured into it.

“I started from home, and then expanded my business from a shop in Bau town. I took notice of successful business marketing via the Internet and jumped onto the bandwagon.

“Today, I market my products through the Facebook page “Ludia Craft Collections”,” she said.

Ludia said in the past six months, she had started to receive more orders via her Facebook page from other parts of Sarawak, Sabah and Peninsular Malaysia.

“The orders that come in online or directly have been almost non-stop, sometimes even exceeding my capacity.

“Given the opportunity, I would like to expand my business by increasing the number of sewing machines and hiring workers,” she said. — Bernama/Noor Bakhtiar Ahmad