Zhengjiang and the Old Ferries

1
The cliff face still retained at the elevated site of the watch tower.

The cliff face still retained at the elevated site of the watch tower.

ZHENGJIANG on the Yangtze is, perhaps, not known to many who are not Chinese-educated.

Some westerners may know it via Marco Polo’s records. Indeed, it has been noted he actually stepped on the stone-steps of the Xijindu ferry.

PS Buck and her missionary parents worked and lived in this historical city for many years. Their former house is part of Nanjing University now. Her novels relate her Chinese background of farms, scenery, people and issues of the Yangtze valley.

Politically, Zhengjiang has seen development since 800 BC. It is most famous as a port at the confluence of the Yangtze or Long River and the Grand Canal (started in 700BC). Today, it is a bustling, awesome tourist city, offering almost anything Chinese. Its name means ‘Control of the River’.

It was a warm Saturday and schoolchildren were out doing a project selling newspapers and learning to talk to adults. Selling the papers at one yuan a piece, each pupil was accompanied by a teacher. Some parents were keeping a watchful eye nearby on their activities.

The Malaysian group was only too happy to buy a few newspapers, donating to a good cause, and starting to read before entering the tourist centre facing the Yangtze River. This redeveloped area, completed in record time of four years, is 1,000 metres long and faces the old ferry point of Xijin. Hence, the name of the area — Xijindu or Western Ferry.

According to a local man known as Ma, who met with the Malaysian group, the old residents were compensated and moved elsewhere to make way for tourism development. Some have stayed on to make a living by operating the various tea and coffee houses. Some are from elsewhere like western China or even Guangzhou. Even the watch tower at the top of the hill is barely three years old.

Ma elaborated: “Our government is really trying its best to modernise this area with proper facilities and make it very attractive. There is constant updating. WiFi, wine bars, good western foods, and lots of restaurants are all very appealing to people of all ages — from the countryside as well as outside China.

“If one stands here at the entrance, one can lose count of how many tour groups stop by. Our tourist guides usually have university degrees or are part-time undergrads with good linguistic skills. Over there is one who can speak French.”

The Gospel Church, originally built in 1889 by J Hudson Taylor.

The Gospel Church, originally built in 1889 by J Hudson Taylor.

Not tight-fisted

The government has not been tight-fisted in funding this project to provide historical, cultural and recreational features for both local and foreign tourists alike to enjoy.

Who would think an old ferry point which had functioned from the Song Dynasty till the early 1930’s, could attract millions of tourists every year? Xijindu or Western Ferry is situated along the periphery of a cliff at the northern foot of the Yuntai Mountain. It is composed of the Ancient Xijin Ferry and Xiaomatou Street.

For history lovers, this street contains the most and best-preserved cultural relics and historical sites, and it is where the ‘context’ of the famous historical and cultural city of Zhenjiang lies. There is one unique glass-covered area through which tourists can see the different layers of stone-steps of the original ferry point and the walls from the different dynasties  — very much like an archeological dig.

Within the site, many narrow alleys run at right angle to each other and shoplots face the alleys. Traditional tea houses juxtapose Italian Pizza shops and French cafes. Benches are available for seniors to sit under the sun and enjoy watching people.

The Yangtze River is known in China as the Chang Jiang or Long River. It is the longest river in Asia and the third longest in the world, flowing 6,300km from the glaciers on the Qinghai (lake), eastward across southwest, central and eastern China before emptying to the East China Sea at Shanghai. It is the longest in the world to flow entirely within one country.

Thus, the Yangtze is 10 times the length of the Rajang and at its widest, more than two miles across.

A significant stop

Swapping views with Ma, a Malaysian group member, Hii Kai Wong noted: “This stop for our team is very significant as we can feast our eyes on the architecture of the Ming and Qing dynasties, look and feel the tracks of wheels and hoof-prints generated thousands of years ago.

“The sculptures, placed significantly along the streets, make history very real. I’m delighted to see life-size sculpture of a pigtailed Qing Dynasty wharf labourer pushing carts, a Qing lady on horseback and a European businessman negotiating with a Qing clerk who had a sempua in his hand. These are all ideas we can borrow. A real eye-opener.”

Ma chimed in: “Besides, the style of this historical and cultural centre brings to life the missionaries of 1880’s who came here to

preach the Gospel. There is an Anglican Church further down the road and a big Methodist Church at Daxi Road where the famous preacher Hudson Taylor even adopted Chinese clothing and name. Taylor worked and lived in Zhengjiang until he died. He built the Gospel Church at Daxi Road, Zhengjiang.”

The group later made a study and took lots of photographs of the Gospel Church. They also met up briefly with the local Christians. Some in the group trekked right up to the cliff to the newly-constructed watch tower that continues to keep a lookout over the river traffic along the Yangtze.

Another group member Steve Ling said: “The local tourists seem to be paying homage when they slowly trek up the steep paths in the heat of the still early days of summer. There is a lot to see and from the vantage points, we can view a lot of the city and the Yangtze River too. It’s not a difficult climb.”

The architecture of this historical site is Ming and Qing. Tourists and locals often feel they are getting into a time machine when walking by the lovely ‘old homes’ which actually house many ultra modern wine bars!

An alleyway in the city.

An alleyway in the city.

Stepping back in time

Some of the narrower alleys made one feel as if one was walking down a 16th century old village.

According to a popular tourist leaflet, a leisurely stroll along the site would be a rewarding experience, be it secular, religious, historical or even therapeutic.

The leaflet also introduced two more places of interest — the British Consulate and a Baptist Church, built in 1885.

There is another site worth visiting, according to Ma who came with his wheelchair-bound mother.

He told the group about Lady White Snake, who captured the romantic imagination of many young people, pointing out that the pagoda where she was imprisoned could be seen across the river.

Many movies have been made based on the Romance of Lady White Snake.

Ma also showed the group Xiaomatou jie or Small Jetty Street where the 16-feet high Zhaoguan Stupa, rising behind a stone arch, from the Mongol Dynasty, is situated.

This street is the oldest part of Zhengjiang City. There are names of public officials, serving the city in 1583, engraved on the stupa!

In fact, around 1300, a census reported that some Nestorian Christians were living in Zhenjiang and the city is still one of China’s busiest ports for domestic commerce, serving as a hub for trade between northern Jiangsu and Anhui provinces, and Shanghai.

The trade consists mostly of grains, cotton, oils, and lumber. The other main industries are predominantly food processing and paper pulp manufacturing. Zhenjiang is famous among Chinese for its heroic resistance against the British and the Japanese.

Zhenjiang is also home to the Silkworm Raising Research Institute of the Academy of Agricultural Science of China. A local speciality is a steamed meat pastry called Crab Cream Bun.

Other famous special products include fragrant black vinegar, Chinkiang pork, and pickles. Because of the city’s strategic location on the Yangtze River, Shi Huangdi, the first Emperor of China, believed the power of feng shui in Zhenjiang was too strong, so he ordered 3,000 prisoners to dig a tunnel through a hill to divert the power elsewhere.

This venerable city with so many historical and cultural spots, has much to offer tourists from different parts of the world and with specific interests.

No wonder Han Suyin once remarked: “Walking in this simple and elegant ancient street (of Xijin), I feel as if I were in a natural history museum.”

We cannot agree with her more.

An old replica house at Xijindu Scenic and Cultural Park.

An old replica house at Xijindu Scenic and Cultural Park.