Apple Capital and Valley of Giants

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Point Walter Recreation and Conference Centre.

Point Walter Recreation and Conference Centre.

THE small quaint towns South of Perth offer beautiful getaways for a full day trip for many a traveller.

A mother and daughter from Ipoh had a lot of find out when they booked a special tour with a Chinese-speaking tour company of Perth.

Yin Yin and her mother Yip Ping were over the moon when they saw the peach flowers along the road to Donnybrook and then on to Walpole to visit the Valley of the Giants to see the giant Tingle trees.

They had told the tour company they must see the Tingle trees on this particular trip. How many people would drive 200km just to see some trees? Or come all the way from Malaysia just to see a tree called Grandma Tingle?

Seventy-plus Yip Ping was accompanied by her filial daughter and they were excited to see everything along the way, even when it was not even bright enough in the early spring morning.

They had booked the whole tour bus which could easily seat 12 people, with the tour company.

I was invited to come along for a wonderful rustic and country tour of Western Australia in early spring, a really good season to look at buds, fresh flowers and how the earth starts coming to life again.

Yin Yin, a graduate from US Oklahoma University, has been taking her mother on tours to Tibet, Bhutan, Mauritius and European countries in the past five years.

She said and the tour leader this was a special one for her mum who had been “at home nursing dad” for years.

Taking her mother for trips is one of her joys in life. And I could see how happy the two of them were, on and off the bus, both occupying window seats and yet able to chat affectionately.

The effervescent Yin Yin even amused the Chinese-speaking tour guides with her interesting life experiences in the US and Malaysia.

While the vegetarian Yip Ping was careful about what she ate in the bus, the others ate the delectable sandwiches, prepared by the tour company.

Yip Ping was a good traveller and looked at everything through the window.

Happy Ipoh grandmother enjoying her photo-taking.

Happy Ipoh grandmother enjoying her photo-taking.

Interesting town

The first interesting small town was Boyanup where we had a pit-stop to look at an English Tavern called The Bull and the Bush.

The graceful timber interiors were delightful to look at and the menu typically Australian.

The owner-operator was cheerful and chatty. The warm hospitality would have been even better if we were a big group who came for the cider and ale.

The simple guided tour gave us an awesome peek into Australian history and modern life as the owner had placed many vintage artifacts in selected corners.

This tavern has a long history since 1880’s. The backyard is big enough to cater for 300 guests and its long table of 30 metres, is made of yarrah, the most valued, water resistant, wood of Australia.

After driving 220km, we arrived at Donnybrook, the Centre of Apple Growing in Western Australia.

The apple is one of the most loved fruits in the world. Like all the Chinese from Malaysia, the tour leader said Yip Ping and Yin also requested to see APPLES! Almost all Malaysian tourists love visiting orchards and vineyards.

Plaque of the Old English Oak Tree.

Plaque of the Old English Oak Tree.

Many travelling ways

There are many ways to travel as a tourist in Western Australia. Many will drive on their own, do a DIY, which is popular among the younger set.

The older people, especially those from Malaysia, will consider a tour company which has Chinese and Bahasa Malaysia speaking guides.

If their number is too small, the tour company will select other local Asians to join the tour to make up the number. This is better for smaller groups of below 15.

Food is easily prepared and the costs are lower too. Big coaches belonging to bigger companies, especially when booked online, may be more expensive and also, the programme may not be suitable for all the members.

Customised tour

A customised tour to Donnybrook and its surrounding areas is from 7am to 11 pm — with two meals provided by this tour company.

Bottled drinking water is free flow and the helpful tour guide even pays for the special coffees along the way.

However, according to most travel brochures, Australian water from the pipe is potable (or drinkable). Most young people just drink from the tap actually.

Along the way, Yin Yin and Yip Ping enjoyed meeting people from all walks of life.

At a market, we saw local cakes, pies and pastries and even special birds. Chickens were sold in cages, in very humane ways, with special covers and under trays for hygienic removal of chicken droppings.

The children we met looked at the chickens as if they were pets or zoo animals. It was fun visiting a market in Western Australia.

The Ipoh ladies had a good time taking photos with local people and local food. The market vendors were very friendly. And at a mini museum shop, all of us picked up good information and bought a few sou-venirs.

The manageress of the mini museum shop was very friendly and ever ready to answer questions.

Besides being famous for its apple growing, Donnybrook is also known for the abundance of English Oak trees, some of which were grown by early English migrants in the 1800’s!

Our small group visited the Engish Oak Tree — a must visit — (although it had shed its leaves in the winter and young buds were just coming out) and the quaint shops along the main road.

This tree was planted in 1842 by settlers who came to mill timber. To celebrate 150 years of Donnybrook in 1992, a time capsule was placed near the tree, to be dug up in 2042, to celebrate its 200th year.

The community centre was right next to the Oak Tree and we were entertained by a very friendly Donnybrook resident who told us the town was also originally a timber mill settlement.

Yip Ping said she remembers timber yards and timber towns in Pahang. And I thought of Kapit in Sarawak.

Fruits galore at the market centre.

Fruits galore at the market centre.

Old gold-mining town

Situated on the banks of the Preston River, Donnybrook was once a gold mining town also.

The timber men and gold miners were not disappoint-ted by the shortage of timber and lack of gold for they turned their skills into growing fruits and Donnybrook into the Apple Capital of the West.

Another skill the timber men and gold miners had was crafting the sandstones in the hills in building materials.

These subsequently “graced not only local buildings but landmarks including the GPO in Perth and the Federation Square in Melbourne.”

There is also an Aboriginal Heritage Trail which Yin Yin and her mother gave a miss.

Nature lovers regard this trail very highly. It is well defined and has gentle gradients with a few steps. It traverses through a lush riparian river ecosystem encompassing the suspension bridge and a weir crossing in the middle of Donnybrook, and incorporates the Preston River Indigenous Walk Trail and the Waugyl Sculpture Park.

If one is travelling on one’s own, one can take the trail for half a day and enjoy bird-watching and animal-sighting.

A point of interest is what Donnybrook residents call The Cemetery Walk or ‘Chinaman’s Grave’.

Here, historians and history lovers will find a very interesting spot where a Chinese gardener was laid to rest.

Located at Fleet Street in Donnybrook is the grave of a Chinese man. He was a market gardener who became Donnybrook’s first murder victim.

Gazetted as a town in 1894, Donnybrook was settled around 1842 — the same year James Brooke arrived in Kuching — when George Nash and others moved to the area. They named the place Donnybrook after the suburb of Dublin Ireland came from.

In 1907 gold was discovered in Donnybrook which resulted in a mini rush. By 1901, 200 gold miners were camped in the gold fields. However the excitement was shortlived. Today, tourists can even get an organised tour to a gold mine!

Valley of Giants

Then, we reached the Valley of the Giants where mother and daughter enjoyed their walk on tree tops, the wind and the wonderful plants and small windy paths.

The canopy walk took only 20 minutes to complete but once the ticket had been paid for, a visitor could walk around as many times as possible until closing time, in fact.

The wind was strong at that time and one could see around 360 degrees. It was inspiring to be on top of the trees, more than 400 feet above the ground.

Yip Ping was very energised to walk around even though it had become extremely cold.

We saw Grandma Tingle, and met many other giants. All the Tingles were given an affectionate name and the Forest Department has indeed put up great labels to educate everyone.

Yip Ping said it was very worthwhile coming all the way from Malaysia just to see this Forest Reserve and especially Grandma Tingle.

To her it was an escape into serenity.

The Indian Ocean seen from Western Australia near Donnybrook.

The Indian Ocean seen from Western Australia near Donnybrook.