The inn on McDougall’s hill

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An inn with a mission. Wong-Jabu holds up a photograph of the restored and refurbished building as Bolly and Karim look on.

NORMALLY, one associates bishops with consecrating a new building for a church, not with declaring open a hotel. But like every mundane rule, there’s an exception; in fact, one was made last week.

The Right Revd Datuk Bolly Lapok, on the eve of his retirement as the Anglican Bishop of the Diocese of Kuching, was accorded that honour by the management of The Marian Boutique Lodging House in Kuching. There’s a reason for this: the building – formerly the boarding house of St Mary’s School – and the land belong to the diocese.

The ceremony is equivalent to the Iban tradition known as Mangkong Tiang – a warming for a brand new house.

This heritage building must have been ‘house warmed’ three times: first by the original owner, Ong Ewe Hai, who had come to Sarawak from Singapore in 1846; then in 1933 by Rajah Brooke and the Bishop of the day; and last week, by Bishop Datuk Bolly.

Together, he and Minister of Tourism, Arts, Culture, Youth and Sports Datuk Abdul Karim Rahman Hamzah, rang the bell three times to declare open the hotel. Datuk Karim was deputising for the Chief Minister Datuk Amar Abang Johari Tun Openg at this ceremony.

And together with the director of The Marian Rosemarie Wong-Jabu, he pushed open the main entrance door after a short prayer for the safety of the guests and the managers of the outfit.

Earlier, in his speech, Bishop Bolly acknowledged the 169-year-long happy relation between the Church and the State of Sarawak, and affirmed that, “We – the Church and state – belong together.”

Recalling the ziarahs made by the successive Governors and Chief Ministers during Christmas celebrations when “the Bishop’s House is open to the public”, he was expressing his wish and offering his prayer that the relationship between Church and state would remain as strong as ever.

Well known for his courage in expressing his opinion on the importance of practising muhibbah (goodwill) among the religious fraternity in the country, Bishop Bolly sadly noted, “the ugly trend of the widening of gap between the various races in the Peninsula”. He was happy, however, to say that, “we thankfully enjoy our much vaunted muhibbah, which is characterised by tolerance and acceptance of the rich religious and cultural diversity that Sarawak is endowed with.” This statement was received with enthusiastic applause.

During its 169 years of existence, the diocese has played host to a number of important visitors other than those from the clergy. On Oct 15, 1952, Her Highness the Duchess of Kent laid the Foundation Stone of the new church of the present St Thomas’ Cathedral.

The rare occasions that the diocese had the chance to play host to the local dignitaries were cherished moments. In similar vein and in the spirit of goodwill and esteem he, on behalf of the diocese, welcomed the Chief Minister’s emissary to the function.

The Bishop’s parting message to the audience was, “This boutique hotel represents our pioneering effort to keep abreast with the commercial world, needless to say it is to this very world the Church is sent to serve.”

I was following the whole event with much interest. While the speeches were made and the rooms were being assessed for quality by the guests who are potential lodgers, I was musing to myself on the ban imposed on the boys from St Thomas’ to get in direct touch with the girls at St Mary’s.

In the 1950s, the boys at St Thomas’ were a creative lot. For films, the boarders made a point to go to the Rex Theatre, which was opposite the St Mary’s Boarding House rather than to the Lilian Theatre or the Sylvia Cinema in the main part of the town, hoping to get a glimpse of the St Mary’s girls. For communication, they used the time-honoured Autograph Book, discreetly carried by a number of couriers. I do not remember if Limbang Pau (George Wong, father of Rosemarie) was one of them. He certainly had access to the girls’ boarding house because he had sisters.

Through the service of such couriers the boys at St Thomas’ sent their Autograph Book with messages such as: “Drink hot coffee, drink hot tea; burn your lips and remember me.” By similar method, the girls would respond with, “I love the river, I love the brook. I love the owner of this book.” Often they received blanks, or else rude remarks such “Don’t be cheeky, you.”

Those were the days before smartphones! These natty gadgets would have made life much easier to contact the girls without so much trouble, or committing literary crimes like composing couplets of dubious value. As I looked around the crowd that afternoon, I recognised some former boarders at St Mary’s; they’re not exactly school girls any more, but as either mothers or grannies, they were giggling like they used to do.

I wonder how they feel about their old bedrooms being converted into deluxe suites. Shouldn’t they be booking a room there and spending a few leisurely days in the old hostel without harassment by their boarding-house mistress?

There is a swimming pool to splash in. Take the grandchildren for a swim.

On a fine day, you will enjoy the panoramic view of the city and virtually see its changing waterfront as the new bridge across the river is taking shape. At night, I imagine the lights on Kuching streets down below must be pretty. What better place to watch displays of fireworks during celebrations than the balcony of the boutique inn on McDougall’s hill.

Within its compounds, the old durian tree is gone but the saga trees (Abrus precatorius) are still there – one to the south of the hotel, behind the Bishop’s House and one near the House of Epiphany. One informer told me the saga seeds were planted by Harriette, wife of Bishop McDougall. It’s good to know that some things never change even for a hundred years.

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