A worker going about his work. Up to 400 fish can be sold in a day. Daily sales of roes
are usually two kgs but can reach 10kg when the demand is high.
WHEN visiting a new place, we usually like to buy something home — something that’s special and exclusive.
In Kuching, that highly valued ‘something’ is ‘terubok masin’ (salted or pickled herring), a big favourite among visitors. Although the terubok has many fine bones, the slight greasiness of its flesh makes it very tasty.
The fish and, especially its eggs (roes), are highy priced and frequently purchased as gifts.
The ‘terubok masin’ is not overly salty — not like other types of salted fish in the market, according to Pian, a ‘terubok masin’ seller for some 20 years.
“The saltiness will not overwhelm the flavour of its flesh. It actually complements the flesh’s exotic taste,” he said.
Pian now runs an outlet called Ajun Ikan Terubok Masin Sarawak at Kampung Gersik, Petra Jaya.
He started out at a street market near Brooke Dockyard and traded there for several years before moving to another market at Satok.
A year later, he had to move again when the market was shifted to Medan Niaga Satok. Around this time, encouraged by the demand for his product, he opened another branch at Kampung Gersik.
Apart from salted terubok, Pian also deals in fresh terubok, especially when it’s the season. For quality control, he personally oversees the preparation of his products.
Pian and his wife at their terubok shop in Kampung Gersik.
High demand
He said the terubok has always been in high demand in Sarawak for its unique creamy musky taste although small children may find it a bit difficult to eat as it’s full bones as fine as hair.
A member of Pian’s family showing the neatly packed box of terubok for customers from abroad to take home.
Terubok roes are also very popular but their production is seasonal. Female terubok, caught from April to August, are ready to produce roes.
At this time, Pian gets his stock mainly direct from fishermen in Sebuyau, Kampung Pendam and Kampung Semarak.
In other months, he sources his supply from Kampung Beladin but the fish he obtains from there is known distinctively as terubok ulu.
For terubok without roes, Pian can get them from Kampung Muara Tebas, Kampung Gobel, and Kampung Santubong.
He said in Malaysia, the terubok is more plentiful in Sarawak, particularly in Kuching, Kota Samarahan, Betong, Sri Aman and Sarikei — another reason why it’s much sought after from here.
According to fishery experts, over-fishing has depleted the terubok population in Southeast Asia — with only Sarawak’s coastal areas left as their last natural habitats.
Customers call at Pian’ shop from morning till he closes late at night.
Good market potential
On his foray into the ‘terubok masin’ business, Pian said he initially worked for other people but decided to branch out on his own after realising the product had good potential.
He picked up as much as he could about the business, and when he felt he had enough confidence, he quit his job to open his own shop.
“No regrets,” he said, flashing a triumphant smile.
“I must thank my wife for her full support. She’s now helping me to run the business. I also have my children and four workers helping out. Every day is a business day — from morning till night. I close only one day a year — on the first day of Hari Raya.”
Other products on sale at Pian’s shop.
Pian said most of his customers were from the peninsula to whom buying ‘terubok masin’ seemed a must-do thing while they were holidaying in Sarawak.
Not to be outdone, he added, were visitors from Brunei and Singapore with their big appetite for salted terubok and roes, not forgetting the many locals who bought his products either for their own consumption or to bring to peninsular Malaysia, Singapore, Brunei, or Sabah as gifts for relatives, friends or business associates.
According to Pian, sales are especially brisk during school holidays when more people travel, and the month of Ramadan.
There are sale spikes as well with the approach of festive seasons such as Hari Raya, Gawai, Christmas, and even Chinese New Year.
Pian packs the orders from abroad in airtight boxes to make sure they are safely transported by air.
Many of his customers are tourists staying in hotels across the river in Kuching south. It comes off as a fun thing for them to cross the river by sampan (paddle boat), dine at restaurants or any food outlets and do some shopping on the north shore before returning to their hotels.
“In fact, this place (Kampung Gersik) is one of the major tourist spots in Kuching,” he reckoned.
Salting the fish for several days before drying them under the sun.
Simple process
For Pian, preparing ‘terubok masin’ is a simple process.
He salts the fish for several days before drying them in the sun for at least four days. Subsequently he packs them neatly in plastic containers — ready for sale.
After buying, what the customers have to do when they reach home is to wash the salt off the terubok, soak them in clean water for about 10 minutes, then prepare to cook.
“If they wanted to keep the fish in the freezer, they still had to wash away the salt and soak the terubok for at least 10 minutes. If the fish were kept straightaway in the fridge without removing the salt, they would end up too salty. The roes are also prepared in the same way,” he explained.
Pian also pointed out that the main purpose of salting the terubok was so that they could keep longer (at least six months in the freezer) while soaking the fish before cooking was to reduce the saltiness and bring out their special taste.
Roes are packed according to price which varies with size and weight.
“Fresh terubok taste quite different from salted ones but there are people who love the latter more,” he added.
On the availability of stock, Pian said the terubok were especially scarce in Sarawak after October.
That’s when he has to import, if need be, from countries such as Myanmar, India and Burma to keep his business going, especially in catering to regular customers. The imported terubok will be treated with the same process of salting, drying and storing.
Pian revealed customers still preferred Sarawak terubok because to them, the local variety tasted better than the imports.
Besides selling ‘terubok masin’ and salted roes, Pian has, over the past two years, come up with several items to complement the range of his products.
These include ready-to-eat crispy terubok, prepared by his wife. It’s made of fresh terubok, cut into small pieces, mixed with spices and seasonings, and then fried until crispy. It is a great appetiser to go with porridge, rice or curry.
“More and more people are taking a liking to it,” he enthused.
His three daughters, aged 21, 17 and 12, all help with the business. The girls who are still schooling, go straight to the shop after school and stay till 7pm. Pian drives them home, then returns to the shop.
He said his children did their homework and revision at the shop.
Pian seldom takes time off. It’s his wife who sometimes brings their chidren out. She said she does miss her husband when he couldn’t join them on family outings. But she and the children understand the priority of looking after the family business.