Enjoying the countryside

THERE’S nothing like going out of the city, away from the maddening crowd, and into the countryside, if you can afford the time.

Why not try it over next weekend?

This Sunday come with me … on paper.

Sarawak has many holidays in a year. The Sarawak Government Almanac lists out all gazetted public holidays and there are still 42 weekends before the year is out.

These holidays are a blessing. They are the quality time for your family members to get together — in the countryside — in your favourite mode of transport.

At the back of the car, the kids may be noisy and quarrelsome, but it’s worth it. At least they are away from the TV for a few hours.

It is good for us to see the real world outside. Many of us are armchair tourists, watching the Travel and Living Channel or the programme ‘Travel Oz’ and admiring the beautiful beaches and posh hotels thousands of miles away.

But we would find it equally educational to drive to a number of local landmarks, several with written history and myth. Enjoying the scenic beauty of our own country and learning how our own folks manage their lives outside the cities is free, except for occasional stops to buy jungle produce.

The attractions of the jungle and fruit trees, wild flowers and clear streams can distract and divert your thoughts from the graphic images of death and suffering caused by man-made wars or by the natural disasters in other parts of the world. Here, we have none of those, thanks to our lucky stars. Touch wood, all the same.

Plenty to see

There are better and broader roads out of Kuching city. From here, all roads lead to Matang, Santubong, Buntal, Muara Tebas, and Serian via the new Samarahan by-pass to connect with the first trunk road. From this ‘highway’ we can drive to other parts of the state, even to Sabah and Brunei and Kalimantan. Then in an arc we turn westwards to Padawan, and the Biatah territory, thence to Bau and Lundu; not forgetting Sematan at the extreme west.

Beginning this weekend, let’s cover this south-western corner of Sarawak and see what it can offer us by way of sights, sounds and smells, plus some history and myth.

From Kuching we shall start with the road to Serian and swing southwards.

First, a bit of history: in the early 1960s, one could go by car from Kuching up to Balai Ringin on a winding road with a number of blind corners. No longer — great improvement indeed.

At the Malaysian Road Construction Unit (MRCU) depot at Balai Ringan, I used to stop for a bowl of kueh tiaw for 80 sen. Beyond that the road to Simanggang was being upgraded.

Later in the 1970s, that road had reached as far as Sungai Tengang where there was another camp of road builders.

This was a rendezvous point for drivers from up north and those from the west for lunch.

I remember this particular stopover well. While answering the call of nature in the starless WC, a sweet voice in Hokkien was commenting on something — not once but thrice. It was that of the blooming Burung Tiong. A linguistic parrot, after learning some rude and unprintable word, was trying it on me.

Controlled villages

From Kuching, on the way to Serian, we pass by three settlements known as Controlled Villages at Siburan, Beratok and Tapah.

These settlements were created in the late 1960s; based on the Brigg’s Plan which was introduced in the then Malaya in 1940-50s, fenced in all sides, they were intended to separate the farmers from the communist terrorists. The scheme worked.

Tarat

The Agricultural Station at Tarat has been of great service to the state in terms of research, training in matters agricultural as well as the practical extension service like the Home Demonstration. Don’t look left — there’s an ‘elephant’ there.

Tea plantation

At the roundabout at Serian, turn three o’clock and you are on the way to Tebekang and Tebedu. Turn left at the junction of Mongkos road and you are on the way to the tea plantation at Kampung Mayang and Engkeroh.

Started in 1980 by Salcra, the estate has produced excellent tea for the supermarkets. Back tracking to the main road, turn right towards     Tebedu and Entikong for lunch and observe the    flow of people and vehicles at the border crossing. Switch on your mobile and you’re being cordially welcomed by the Indonesia network, but don’t call granny at home. It’s a toll call.

We are going home now through the ring road via Kampung Rancang to Kakeng. You remember the faith healer of Kakeng who had drawn hundreds of people afflicted with incurable illnesses to his house? It was claimed that the lame began to walk, the jilted found new love, mentally disturbed made whole.

We are going westwards to Padawan area now.

However, we skip the Borneo Heights resort because the driver is scared of heights. Next time, a visit to the Hot Spring at Anah Rais is a must.

Benuk and Giam

If time permits, try out the road to the villages of Benuk and Giam.

Benuk or Segu was the tourist destination in the 70s and 80s. The late Choo Poh Hin, a tourism pioneer, introduced the longhouse to foreign tourists.

A knowledgeable old man, Pak Otor, keeper of valuable antiques, you name it, was the icon of the village. Old copies of greeting cards carry the picture of the famous longhouse worldwide.

What’s happened to the longhouse now, I wonder?

The longhouse at Giam is a beauty; the stream is crystal clear.

Biodiversity centre and wildlife sanctuary

The next weekend, visit the Biodiversity centre. However, make arrangements with the authorities there before popping in.

For the environmentalists, the centre is a store of knowledge; for the school children, it’s a source of information outside the school curriculum on the importance of preserving the environment and the planting of herbs and other plants of medicinal value.

In the afternoon, drop in at the Semengoh Wildlife centre nearby to join our cousins at teatime held between 3pm and 4pm. Breaking news: a baby was born recently to Seduku, daughter of Delima.

Westward ho

Next weekend: Bau. This old gold mining district is full of history, partly factual, partly legend.

On the way there, pass by the Seniawan bazaar, a favourite of James Brooke’s officials 170 years ago on their way up the Peninjau mountain to rest at the Rajah’s bungalow there. Visualise Spencer St John, on a fine and clear day, scanning the panorama of the whole Sarawak delta, a glass of neat Scotch in one hand.

The main attractions of Bau are Tasik Biru, Fairy Cave (if you are the type who is fond of slimy rocks in the dark); otherwise proceed to Serikin to look for nice rattan mats imported from across the border.

Lundu and Sematan

About 80km from Kuching to Lundu there is a bridge over the Batang Kayan.

I suggest we change the name from Kayan Bridge to James Brooke Bridge or Jambatan Jugah after the name of the Tuai Rumah of the longhouse at Stunggang, or Jambatan Baja, a member of the Council Negeri from Lundu or even Kalong Jemat, the late Orang Kaya and the last     of the hereditary chiefs of the Sebuyau. There was never a Kayan settlement anywhere in the district of Lundu within living memory, but James Brooke did go to the longhouse      at Stunggang on Aug 31, 1839 and befriended   Jugah.

After the bridge, at the junction to Sematan, turn right towards Lundu town. Beautiful Pandan beach is at the end of this road; stop to see the Rafflesia, biggest flower in the world, if it’s in bloom, on Gunung Gading. Then backtrack to town and off to Sematan.

Biawak Road

On the left is the road at the end of which is a Selako village called Biawak, consisting of a row of shop houses entirely run by the Selako/Lara themselves.

During the confrontation days, the road was built to facilitate troop movements, but it did not reach the village itself, for reasons unknown. When the late Tun Razak as Deputy Prime Minister visited the area, late Temenggong Jugah, accompanying him, as Minister of Sarawak Affairs, whispered to the visitor within hearing distance of General Ibrahim.

Apparently, the late Penghulu Anggu Pengarah Otoh had earlier mentioned to Jugah about the road not reaching the village.

A few days later, a unit of army engineers was mobilised and the three-mile stretch bulldozed. Done.

Sadly, the 13-mile long road has not been tar-sealed, but new bridges have recently been built.

Sematan

The best time to visit Sematan is during the durian and mango seasons.

Last year, the organisers of Pesta Ketam had run out of the soft skinned crabs, a new breed, before the Kuching tourists arrived. The visitors had to buy turtle eggs ‘under the table’ instead.

The beach is beautiful and there are first class resorts, if you want to stay overnight.

Many game fishing enthusiasts know where the fishing grounds off Sematan are. Like their kind the world over, after each trip, they would boast of their catches but refuse to disclose how many and how big were those that got away!

Pretty homes

One of the rewards for driving along all these roads in Serian or Bau or Lundu, is the sight of the cute homes made of concrete, with colours of all hues, pleasant to the eye.

However, the old wooden houses, with Borneo hardwood or Belian as posts and roofs, are diminishing. Belian roofing is not easily available; other good timber costs the earth, more expensive than cement and bricks.

There are schools, primary and secondary. Who says we are not educated?

The suraus, temples and chapels add charm to the countryside that we have passed through. Who says we are not pious?

Water and power

However, one wonders if all or most of these houses have piped water and government-supplied electricity.

Many homeowners can improvise, though: install tanks made of fibre glass to collect rain for domestic use and buy portable generator sets for the light.

Depending on the mood and the circumstances, next weekend, we may go eastwards — to the Nonok peninsula, oops Asajaya.