Idyllic charms of Xitang

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This quiet ancient town in China is an ideal hideaway to experience simplicity and leisure

WELL PRESERVED: Idyllic scenes at the ancient town of Xitang.

AMIDST the hubbub of a looming election in the state, remembering Xitang, a small mystical water town in Zhejiang Province, China, is sheer bliss with unforgettable and enchanting scenes unfolding before you.

Some people think Xitang is like a poem – to others, it’s a song. For Me, Xitang is a land of rivers, bridges, long verandas and narrow lanes set in poetic ambiance.

Wandering through the town’s beautiful and peaceful landscape is like immersing myself in poet Tao Yuanming’s Peach Blossom Spring. It’s the people and the simplicity of life in a song.

How to get there? If you are going to Hangzhou, you are just 80km away. If you have landed in Shanghai, it’s 110km from the bustling city.

Xitang – together with five other famous traditional towns – Xhou Zhuang, Tong Li, Lu Zhi, Wu Shen and Nan Xun – in China are all part of Unesco World Heritage.

We arrived at Xitang before noon, and standing on a bridge, looking at the quiet water that reflected the late morning sun, I was drawn into fond thoughts of our own magnificent Rejang River.

With water sparkling at almost every point the eyes could see, and mirroring the houses on the shore, the idyllic waterways of Xitang transported me back to those halcyon days of blissful youth.

There are nine rivers of life crisscrossing the town and dividing it into eight parts, all linked by bridges.

There are 104 bridges of varied structures, all dating back to the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Their shapes differ greatly from one another. Ancient in look, yet they resemble the modern hyperlink to the Internet.

The bridges are not only indispensable for the convenience they provide. In terms of beauty, they also make Xitang so unique and exclusive.

The rippling water passing under the exquisite bridges – like it has been doing for eons – stood me in awe of the wonders of the Creator!

Local legend has it that a walk with your loved one over the Songi Laifen bridge increases fertility. Consequently, couples who come here cannot resist strolling across it!

Eye-catching

Old alleyways are eye-catching features in Xitang.

The original ancient residences all have lanes, shared by 20 to 30 households.

There are many lanes – long and short, wide and narrow. Some are dark while some simply function as the drain of two homes.

The small lanes can be as narrow as 80cm, allowing only one person to pass through at a time. Walking down these weather-worn paths, I felt everything slowing down.

The shops are connected with veranda shelters, stretching a thousand metres in length.

According to legend, there was a tobacco shop with very poor business. One day, a beggar, lying in front of the door, decided to stay on as night fell.

The good-hearted owner erected a shelter for him as protection from the wind and rain.

The next day, the owner found a couplet on the  door, saying: “The veranda shelter shielded off a night’s rain and wind, and good luck will go to the family.”

After that, the shop’s business began to boom. Seeing this, the other residents started to build their own veranda shelters. Apart from shielding visitors from the elements, these structures have a certain appeal and grace about them.

Modern houses are certainly not a common sight in Xitang. All the houses are old but beautifully preserved. Besides their historical values, the houses are adorned with elaborate displays of cultural relics, woodcarvings or eaves tiles collected by the owners.

Houses are open for visitors to enter freely. Display of the owners’ rare ancient books, passed down from generation to generation, was a big “wow” for me. Equally amazing were the stone inscriptions of famous calligraphers.

Spiritual blessing

Plants as tall as 12 inches could be seen growing on the roofs of some of the old houses. It is said the spirits of the former owners join the plants in blessing the houses and the entire town!

Walking around the town, you could feel the easy-going lifestyle of the people. There were artists presenting visitors with sketches.

The elderly played with their grandchildren on the bridges and in the narrow lanes while the women washed clothing by the river beside their homes. Every river, bridge and lane is filled with life in this ancient town.

A Unesco World Heritage Centre advisor spoke highly of Xitang after a visit.

“Xitang is like the limpid and melodious music of a flute – people need to appreciate it with their heart,” he said.

Xitang is, indeed, a place to experience simplicity and leisure! It’s a place where everything slows down and where you could take a step back in time. It’s a place you have to see with your eyes and heart to really appreciate it.

Xitang was also featured in the final sequence of the motion picture Mission Impossible III.

I find it amazing that while Xitang has opened up to millions of tourists, the lives of the people have not changed. The fishermen still fish; buntings of knickers and vests are still strung all over the place; merchants still run their simple stores; women still wash their clothing by the river and children still run from lane to lane, both wide and narrow.

Back home, cities and towns are seeing influxes of high profile politicians and visitors. More will be coming in the days ahead as Sarawakians prepare to go to the polls on April 16. When they leave, will it be  back to life as usual?