Signboard of the Jungle Blues Dream Homestay
Steven Baye, Bario’s resident artist.
THERE is no specific season for visiting Bario. The peak season — in the last nine years – has perhaps coincided with its Annual Food Festival in July.
However, anytime is a good time to visit Bario. There are enough homestays for a short visit. Even when the homestays are full, one can still choose a friendly “new friend’s longhouse” to stay after arriving by the daily Twin Otter flight. That’s what one of the pilots told us.
Someone chips in with this advice: “Do give a small token before leaving for the food and accommodation and it can help your friend in many ways!”
Bario is so small you can approach anyone for a recommendation, according to an English-speaking Rela member.
You can see one or two uniformed Rela members at Bario Airport, seemingly a part of the airport personnel team. And sure enough, they do security checks on passengers boarding the Twin Otter. It is a fairly unique scenario.
Sometime ago, a few teachers travelled up to Bario and stayed with an artist and his Danish wife, and were greatly impressed by the wooden homestay and the lovely view of the mountains.
Steven Baye is quiet and soft-spoken but has a lot in his “heart.” This deep thinking artist has named his homestay Jungle Blues Dream.
An intriguing sculpture – In Pursuit of Dreams.
“Each evening, we just sat there and reflected on our day’s excursion, led by Steven,” one of the teachers said.
She added that even though not an artist, she was inspired by the art works adorning the walls of the homestay, especially the living room.
Steven’s homestay is actually part of a longhouse community which has good water supply and a private electricity generator (Gensett). The longhouse, called Ulung Palang, also has a church, a community hall and an open padang.
Meals are provided by Steven and his wife, Tine. Many people have commented that the meals are really good with some even saying they have never before eaten some of the food served — so it’s a unique culinary adventure too.
Steven held a three-month art exhibition in Cambridge sometime ago.
It must have been a first for the Kelabits – perhaps, for a Sarawak native.
He said he learned a lot from the exhibition, describing the experience as humbling.
Today, his Jungle Blues Dream Homestay is the only one in Sarawak and Borneo with art gallery set in the living room. Many art lovers and tourists surf the Net to locate him and then fly into Bario just to see his artworks.
A bookshelf in Jungles Blue Dream. Many have been left behind by well-travelled tourists and backpackers.
Steven drives visitors to and from the airport. His homestay activites include daily jungle trekings and walks around Bario. Visitors also get to use his art gallery.
Steven is forthcoming with his knowledge and information and he loves telling stories about Bario — and about art in his gallery.
He explains in great detail the meaning of his handicrafts and also talks respectfully about other artists.
A special sculpture in the gallery usually attracts the attention of visitors. It depicts people chasing after balls which represent ambitions. Another sculpture represents an underdog — the least able.
There are a few well-known Sarawakian artists and one, in particular, is Lulu Wong, from Kuching. Today, she has an art gallery in London.
Lulu was a teacher at Tanjong Lobang School in the 60’s and later migrated to the UK. She taught many Kelabit students in Tanjong Lobang and many still remember her and her artworks in Miri.
Jungle Blues Dream actually takes up three units of the longhouse situated on top of a hill. From the balcony, visitors can see a huge area – and as far as the eye can see on a clear day.
On cold mornings, Bario is shrouded in mist and it is a sight to behold. Visitors feel as if they are sitting on clouds.
According to the Steven and Tine, the homestay does not provide many rooms for guests — usually two room for each party that arrives. But guests get personal attention in jungle trekking with Stephen, who is a good sportman, leading the way — and there are many treks to choose from.
Steven and family enjoy the use of solar power.
Sometimes, a guide can be hired for more adventurous and longer treks.
The longhouse was razed to the ground not long ago. A new one — built in its place — is also of good hardwood and has a cement floor.
There is a huge common room for all the families to share. A door leads to the private rooms of each family from the common room. There is an airy open space between the landing and the family unit’s back portion where the kitchen, dining room and lobby are situated.
It’s a very friendly environment with the hosts availing visitors of books, chairs and souvenirs left behind by previous guests.
One visitor wrote: “Thank you Steven and Tine for the generous servings of freshly cut pineapples and gorgous passion fruits, freshly baked bread and pastries.”
The showers may be cold — Bario has an average temperature of 20 degrees on cool days and nights. Outside on hot days, it might be 26 degrees. But a good bath after a long jungle trek is really refreshing.
It is always a delight to see a hornbill resting on a tree near the balcony. Birdwatching in the early morning is a special “not-to-miss” activity. Another is looking for orchids growing wild in the area.
Some of the most unique mountain orchids can be found in the windy hills and valleys. A keen photographer can go home with thousands of images in his memory card.
After their stay, homestay guests are asked to write on a board something for Steven and Tine to remember them with.
This homestay is definitely different from others one might have stayed at before. Unique. Unpretentious. Undisturbed.
The church that belongs to the longhouse.
View of a morning mist from the homestsy balcony.