A thing or two about bonsai cultivation

AS a time-honoured masterpiece that is an art of perfection by itself, bonsai is a fantastic option for those who love softscape design.

It takes years of patience and tender care to achieve the trending display that might even change as time goes by.

However, this is a labour of love when it comes to the creators.

What is a bonsai? To put it simply, it is a plant grown inside a pot that is artificially and aesthetically dwarfed so as to create a miniature landscape within its container.

It is subjected to horticultural and sculptural techniques such as constant clipping, trimming and also controlled feeding.

The plant variety does not have to be old to be good, but it can always be perfected through constant care and restructuring by the owner.

Origin of bonsai

Not much is known about the origin of bonsai, but the Chinese have long cultivated and nurtured miniature landscapes in shallow containers with rocks and mosses called ‘penjing’. The first pictorial record of penjing appeared on Chinese temple murals, dating back from the Han Dynasty around 200 BC. The Chinese root word ‘punsai’ and the Japanese word ‘bonsai’ are identical in meaning – the depiction of artistically formed trees, other plants or landscapes in miniature.

The main aim of bonsai is to create a tree-like form in miniature. There is an infinite variety of shapes in nature that are imitated in this horticultural art. The Japanese have devised a number of classic styles, each with distinct aesthetic rules. These rules govern the shape, angle and proportion of the trunk, the number of trunks and the location of the branches, among other things.

Main types of bonsai

• The formal upright style ‘chokkan’ bonsai, with a straight trunk and branches tapering uniformly from base to tip on the alternate side of the trunk.
• Informal upright ‘moyogi’ bonsai, with the trunk having a number of curves with branches on each curve and on all sides of the trunk.
• Slanting and windswept styles, with the trunk slanting to one side but the branches being alternately arranged or swept to one side as if by wind.
• The semi-cascading ‘Han-kengal’, as if the tree grew on the cliff with the trunk curved to and taper well below the level of the pot. All branches must have abundant leaves on the top side.
• Driftwood ‘sharimiki’, echoing the natural appearance of mountain junipers that produce an area of bare, sun-bleached wood. The focal point of interest would be the beautiful and dramatic shapes of the grains in the exposed wood. The shape can be natural or created by elaborately carved and then bleached and persevered with lime sulphur. The foliage masses serve as a foil or frame to the driftwood.
• Rock-over-rock ‘sekijoju’: In the rocky terrains, the scarce soil is always being eroded, exposing the rocks and roots of the trees growing there. This bonsai can be of any style, with the roots clinging tightly to the rock.
• Sinuous raft ‘netsunanari’: It is raft-planting where the original horizontal trunk has an attractive snake-like curve and is exposed to show the feature.
• Exposed root ‘Neagari’: Especially in the peat soil region, we have rubber trees exposing the roots above the ground. This bonsai shows the bending trunk with horizontal branches with leaves away from the pot at the base.
• Twisted trunk ‘bankan’: This is the most unnatural of all bonsai styles – the trunk spirals from the base to the apex, while the branch structure follows that of the informal upright.
• Group ‘Yose-ue’: This bonsai takes on numerous trunks, from seven up to as many as 10, with different sizes. It is arranged to represent depth and perspective.

Basic techniques of cultivation

• Root pruning and repotting in a container for growing a bonsai. Types of plants can be obtained from nursery and we really have to trim down the foliage and branches. Most important of all is the pruning of the roots that keep on sprouting, which could make the plant become pot-bound, leading to poor health. To make it healthy, control the intake of nutrients being absorbed into the roots.
• Fill the pot with the chosen potting mix over a layer of coarse sand at the base for good drainage. Insert the prepped tree into the pot and fix it with wires to allow for an upright or slanting position according to preference. Fill the remaining space with the potting mix and press firm before watering.
• Shape the plant with copper wires by twining them on the branch. This would facilitate the bending or the twisting to achieve the desired shape, albeit slowly. Sometimes a clamp is used to bend the branch smoothly – and slowly. Remember to check the wiring so avoid it leaving marks on the branch.
• Branch pruning: Use sharp tools to make clean cuts and do this close to the trunk. Any new sprout must be removed. Gently remove any bud, and prune close to the bark.
• Constant maintenance also requires feeding and watering.

Remember – to establish a good bonsai takes a long time, and tons of patience.

Happy Gardening!